Climbing in Phuket, The Sunset Wall !

Following the subject of my previous post, I would like to share with you my latest discovery: an untouched Granite Wall located in NaiHarn, south-west of Phuket.

It happened just a few weeks ago when with my friends I was swimming from Nai Harn Beach toward the little island right in front of it.

As I was not trained enough to accomplish the challenge I stopped, withdraw my head from the water, I looked up and I noticed a very nice vertical wall.

Since then, I have been thinking to go back there, check if there was some real climbing potential and why not, to possibly set up a rope.

Eventually last week I came back for the first time with my friend Flavio and with great surprise I found out that even though the cliff is not that high, it features some amazing potential lines up to 7a…or even more!

Considering the wall is only about 10 meters high I do not think that setting up some bolts would make a lot of sense. Luckily, on the top of the cliff there is a little boulder stable enough to be used to secure a removable anchor and set up a few top ropes.

So far I climbed two lines. The first one could be a 6a and I named it ‘Finger’s skin’. The second one I would say is something like 6c/6c+and I named it ‘Lucky Period’.

Considering this place doesn't have a name yet…I would like to baptize it as the Sunset Wall!

Everybody is welcome to give it a try! 

Sunset Wall - Nai Harn Beach

Riccardo abseiling the wall for the first time ever

Securing the anchor around a stable boulder

Location: Nai Harn Beach, South West Phuket

Access: Drive up to the Eolic Generator, park your car/bike and walk down the hill where some people are practicing paragliding. Follow the steep path on the right until you get on the edge of the cliff.

Period: The cliff is facing west, therefore it stays on shade in the morning until 12h00. In the afternoon  it will be very hot, however from 4h00pm it is possible to climb again and enjoy the amazing sunset!

Do not forget to bring your swimming suit and snorkeling kit!

Climbing in Malaysia: Batu Cave and Bukit Keteri....

Climbing in Malaysia is perhaps not so popular among the international climbing community, especially if compared with Thailand, however it has a huge potential that I believe should be taken in a closer consideration.

Being very honest, my personal knowledge was confined with the classic spots of Batu Caves which, beside its famous temple, has a decent number of bolted routes however, a part of it I decided to visit also the areas of Butik Keteri in the province of Perlis next to the borders to Thailand, which seemed to be very interesting and not very popular.

Being surrounded by highways and immerse in the urban district, Batu Caves is probably not the best climbing spot in the world. Nevertheless, even though you will be very far from feeling lost in the middle of a forest or immerse in the deep wild, many walls are featuring very nice lines.

The main crag is indeed the Damai Wall. It is located on the north side of Batu Caves, it is very easy to access, it is in shade from the late morning and therefore it represents the hot spot for many friendly local climbers in particular during the weekends.

The wall is well maintained, it has a number of easy and enjoyable routes and it can guarantee at least two full days of climbing without getting bored.

Butik Keteri it's located on the north side of Malaysia. The best way to reach it is to take an overnight train from KL to Padang Besar. The fare is quite reasonable, only 50 RM for a comfortable berth in superior class and it can be booked online www.ktmb.com.my. 

Since in this area services are very scarce, I strongly recommend anyone going there to get in contact with Mr. Rizuan Khatulpica and to visit his blog at: http://khatulpicaadventure.blogspot.com he is an experienced local guide, very friendly, helpful and with a vast knowledge of the area!

The most interesting spots of the area are of course the K3 hill in Bukit Keteri and the Gua Kelam Big Wall at Kaki Bukit.

Unfortunately due to the absence of many climbers and therefore the scarce maintenance, many of the best routes at K3 are not possible to be climbed because they are literally immerse in the forest, while the Big Wall of Kaki Bukit being located inside a national park is in perfect condition and features amazing long technical routes. Be aware of the bees though...

Supranee May on her first lead at Batu Caves, Damai Wall

Priceless view at K3 hill, north side Cobra Wall

Local climbers at Damai Wall, Batu Cave

Spectacular view of K3 hill in Bukit Keteri

Riccardo, Rizuan, Nadir after climbing at the Big Wall in Kaki Bukit...Nippa rules!!!

Additional pictures can be found on THIS Facebook link, enjoy!!!