Climbing in Phuket, The Sunset Wall !

Following the subject of my previous post, I would like to share with you my latest discovery: an untouched Granite Wall located in NaiHarn, south-west of Phuket.

It happened just a few weeks ago when with my friends I was swimming from Nai Harn Beach toward the little island right in front of it.

As I was not trained enough to accomplish the challenge I stopped, withdraw my head from the water, I looked up and I noticed a very nice vertical wall.

Since then, I have been thinking to go back there, check if there was some real climbing potential and why not, to possibly set up a rope.

Eventually last week I came back for the first time with my friend Flavio and with great surprise I found out that even though the cliff is not that high, it features some amazing potential lines up to 7a…or even more!

Considering the wall is only about 10 meters high I do not think that setting up some bolts would make a lot of sense. Luckily, on the top of the cliff there is a little boulder stable enough to be used to secure a removable anchor and set up a few top ropes.

So far I climbed two lines. The first one could be a 6a and I named it ‘Finger’s skin’. The second one I would say is something like 6c/6c+and I named it ‘Lucky Period’.

Considering this place doesn't have a name yet…I would like to baptize it as the Sunset Wall!

Everybody is welcome to give it a try! 

Sunset Wall - Nai Harn Beach

Riccardo abseiling the wall for the first time ever

Securing the anchor around a stable boulder

Location: Nai Harn Beach, South West Phuket

Access: Drive up to the Eolic Generator, park your car/bike and walk down the hill where some people are practicing paragliding. Follow the steep path on the right until you get on the edge of the cliff.

Period: The cliff is facing west, therefore it stays on shade in the morning until 12h00. In the afternoon  it will be very hot, however from 4h00pm it is possible to climb again and enjoy the amazing sunset!

Do not forget to bring your swimming suit and snorkeling kit!

Climbing in Railay: back to the Mecca…

I came back from Railay yesterday evening. My hands are painful, my arms are still pumped but if I close my eyes I can clearly visualize all the movements of those amazing lines and be ready to climb them again straight away!

I arrived in Tonsai beach on Wednesday afternoon to join my friends Caroline, Ben and Trang coming directly from Vietnam, members of the well-known VietClimb community and we basically climbed like crazy every day from the morning till the evening.

We found accommodation at Railay Garden View Resort on Railay East, a very nice bungalows complex immerse in a nice garden far from the noisy bars. Price was reasonable 600baht/night but make sure you book in advance.

We sent routes all around Fire Wall, Wee’s Present Wall, Escher Wall, Diamond Cave, Pranang Beach, 123 Wall and Muai Thai Wall…even though in my previous post I discouraged these last two crags, I must admit that in fact those two walls have very nice lines! Fortunately not so many climbing schools were operating due to the low season.

Among all the beautiful lines we climbed I would like to suggest:

• Muai Thai – 6b+ at Muai Thai Wall, the first route of the crag
• Ling Rong Hei (Monkey Crying) – 6b+ at Wee’s Present Wall, a beautiful line with a surprise at the end
• Best Route in Minnesota – 6c at Escher World, an infinite vertical black wall inside the cave
• Don’t Grab the Krabi – 7a+ at Escher World, a short line with a violent boulder on the last 4 meters
• Don’t buy toys – 7a+ at Pranang Beach, an overhanging tufa ending on a flat micro feet session. 

By the way do not miss the very nice hike from Thaiwand wall to Escher Wall passing through the cave climbing Twenty Kilos of Steel! Bring a torch and enjoy the priceless view!

 Riccardo clipping before the crux of Don’t Grab the Krabi – 7a+ Escher World, Railay West

Ben cleaning Best Route in Minnesota – 6c at Escher World, Railay West

Priceless view of Railay West and Tonsai Beach from the top of Twenty Kilos of Steel at Thaiwand Wall

If you want to see more pictures check my Facebook page

Climbing in Koh Yao Noi: back again...

Climbing in Koh Yao Noi is definitely becoming a weekend routine now!

We went there during Songkran holiday together with our friends Eric and Jenny and we came back again last Saturday evening to spend a full Sunday of climbing together with Minx and Kafill.

During the last two trips we have extensively climbed at the Bee Wall which has shown to be great even under heavy rains, the Dump Wall where we climbed an amazing 6b+ characterized by two huge stalactites, and spent long afternoons at the HD Wall which stay on shade from 12am on ward and it’s easily reachable walking till the end of the beach, tide permitting.

I would like to report also the presence of a very inspiring boulder right on the middle of the beach. I saw that rock before but I never understood its line until yesterday after having noticed some marks of chalk on it I have started figuring out some movements.

Here below a short video and some pictures. 

Eric on the good holds of Leaping Lizard 6b at Bee Wall, Koh Yao Noi

Riccardo on the crux of Golden Flakes 6c at Bee Wall, Koh Yao Noi

Supranee May on the red holds of HD Wall 5b, Koh Yao noi