Phuket Climbing: Falling Rocks at The Bee Wall in Koh Yao Noi

I would like to inform you that yesterday morning a big piece of rock fell down from the 6a at Bee Wall in Koh Yao Noi and almost transformed our climbing day in a tragedy.

When I was climbing the route I noticed that a big piece of rock was moving a little, I knock it, and as the sound was not very friendly I stopped and I tried to remove it.

Since it was actually impossible to do it I gave up thinking that it might be stable enough or at least it would be better to use a tool such a hammer to remove it.

Few minutes later, when I was belaying my friend Geko who was top-ropping the route, as soon as he stepped on that piece of rock it suddenly fell off to the ground.

Luckily, I was constantly looking up following the climbing progression and I immediately noticed the rock coming down. In a blink of an eye the rock smashed on the floor, I managed to step back right in time but the rock hit my left leg causing me a little wound.

My leg started bleeding, my blood froze and after a few seconds I realized what could have happen if I was not paying constant attention to my climbing partner.

I have been climbing for around 10 years and this is not the first time that such episode happens.  Rock Climbing is a dangerous activitythat deserves the maximum attention from all the persons around the crag, climbers and non-climbers. 

We all know it very well but we often forget it, or at least we underestimate the consequences of our negligence.

Yesterday we were very lucky however I would like again to remind you to always take this activity with the right dose of attention.

Have a good climb!

Riccardo

On Red circle the piece of rock few minutes before the accident

The Rock 

Climbing in Phuket, The Sunset Wall !

Following the subject of my previous post, I would like to share with you my latest discovery: an untouched Granite Wall located in NaiHarn, south-west of Phuket.

It happened just a few weeks ago when with my friends I was swimming from Nai Harn Beach toward the little island right in front of it.

As I was not trained enough to accomplish the challenge I stopped, withdraw my head from the water, I looked up and I noticed a very nice vertical wall.

Since then, I have been thinking to go back there, check if there was some real climbing potential and why not, to possibly set up a rope.

Eventually last week I came back for the first time with my friend Flavio and with great surprise I found out that even though the cliff is not that high, it features some amazing potential lines up to 7a…or even more!

Considering the wall is only about 10 meters high I do not think that setting up some bolts would make a lot of sense. Luckily, on the top of the cliff there is a little boulder stable enough to be used to secure a removable anchor and set up a few top ropes.

So far I climbed two lines. The first one could be a 6a and I named it ‘Finger’s skin’. The second one I would say is something like 6c/6c+and I named it ‘Lucky Period’.

Considering this place doesn't have a name yet…I would like to baptize it as the Sunset Wall!

Everybody is welcome to give it a try! 

Sunset Wall - Nai Harn Beach

Riccardo abseiling the wall for the first time ever

Securing the anchor around a stable boulder

Location: Nai Harn Beach, South West Phuket

Access: Drive up to the Eolic Generator, park your car/bike and walk down the hill where some people are practicing paragliding. Follow the steep path on the right until you get on the edge of the cliff.

Period: The cliff is facing west, therefore it stays on shade in the morning until 12h00. In the afternoon  it will be very hot, however from 4h00pm it is possible to climb again and enjoy the amazing sunset!

Do not forget to bring your swimming suit and snorkeling kit!

Bouldering in Phuket: unlock the potential...

Even though Phuket Island doesn't have any climbing spot, all around the numerous beaches on the west cost there are a lot of big granitic boulders to be explored...the video below shows a little example of the amazing potential!

Stay tuned....

Climbing in Koh Yao Noi – The Grateful Wall!

I have been living in Phuket one full year now and I went out Climbing in Koh Yao Noi so many times that I cannot count them on my fingers.

Since I usually prefer climbing on sea side walls, so far my preferred spots were the HD Wall and the Big Tree Wall. Of course The Bee Wall is also very nice and certainly The Mitt is a great spot…however, still I was probably missing the best of it…The Grateful Wall!!!

The Grateful Wall is an amazing cliff standing a few meters above the sea level only reachable by boat and considering it is facing north, thus constantly on shade, it is possible to climb the whole day!

The wall was discovered and bolted by Mark Miner in 2004, it has 10 bolted routes from 6a to 6c+ and it is great for beginners and absolutely amazing for any average climber looking for spectacular lines.

The rock is terribly solid, movements are intuitive and since all the routes have vertical sessions and overhanging passages, the climbing is sustained and trained forearms are necessary to reach the anchors specially while climbing on-sight!

The name of this outstanding wall is dedicated to the famous American rock band The Grateful Deadand climbing Franklin’s Tower (6a+/35m) to ring the bell …it’s a must!

Do not forget to bring a 70m ropes and your swimming suit!

The Grateful Wall

Climbing in Malaysia: Batu Cave and Bukit Keteri....

Climbing in Malaysia is perhaps not so popular among the international climbing community, especially if compared with Thailand, however it has a huge potential that I believe should be taken in a closer consideration.

Being very honest, my personal knowledge was confined with the classic spots of Batu Caves which, beside its famous temple, has a decent number of bolted routes however, a part of it I decided to visit also the areas of Butik Keteri in the province of Perlis next to the borders to Thailand, which seemed to be very interesting and not very popular.

Being surrounded by highways and immerse in the urban district, Batu Caves is probably not the best climbing spot in the world. Nevertheless, even though you will be very far from feeling lost in the middle of a forest or immerse in the deep wild, many walls are featuring very nice lines.

The main crag is indeed the Damai Wall. It is located on the north side of Batu Caves, it is very easy to access, it is in shade from the late morning and therefore it represents the hot spot for many friendly local climbers in particular during the weekends.

The wall is well maintained, it has a number of easy and enjoyable routes and it can guarantee at least two full days of climbing without getting bored.

Butik Keteri it's located on the north side of Malaysia. The best way to reach it is to take an overnight train from KL to Padang Besar. The fare is quite reasonable, only 50 RM for a comfortable berth in superior class and it can be booked online www.ktmb.com.my. 

Since in this area services are very scarce, I strongly recommend anyone going there to get in contact with Mr. Rizuan Khatulpica and to visit his blog at: http://khatulpicaadventure.blogspot.com he is an experienced local guide, very friendly, helpful and with a vast knowledge of the area!

The most interesting spots of the area are of course the K3 hill in Bukit Keteri and the Gua Kelam Big Wall at Kaki Bukit.

Unfortunately due to the absence of many climbers and therefore the scarce maintenance, many of the best routes at K3 are not possible to be climbed because they are literally immerse in the forest, while the Big Wall of Kaki Bukit being located inside a national park is in perfect condition and features amazing long technical routes. Be aware of the bees though...

Supranee May on her first lead at Batu Caves, Damai Wall

Priceless view at K3 hill, north side Cobra Wall

Local climbers at Damai Wall, Batu Cave

Spectacular view of K3 hill in Bukit Keteri

Riccardo, Rizuan, Nadir after climbing at the Big Wall in Kaki Bukit...Nippa rules!!!

Additional pictures can be found on THIS Facebook link, enjoy!!!

Climbing in Vietnam: A new climbing frontier in South East Asia…

Have you ever heard about Cat Ba? Huu Lung? Quoc Hoai? Mai Chau? Not yet? Well, you better start having a look on Google map then!

For many years Vietnamhas been associated with a terrible conflict that notoriously brought the name of this nation all over the media around the globe. However, after the end of the American War in April 1975 this amazing country has been protagonist of large series of dramatic changes. From the application of the Doi Moi in 1986 onward and in particular over the very last decade, its economic growth has pushed forward the resurrection of this country in all the possible direction, including of course Rock Climbing!

If you are planning a Rock Climbing Trip in South East Asia, you cannot miss the chance to include Vietnam on your itinerary. The cocktail of solid limestone and unique cultural diversity will make your trip and amazing experience.

All the Climbing Areas in Vietnam are located in the north. Quoc Oai it’s about 20 Km from Hanoi, the capital and it can be easily reached by motorbike.  This spot has a dozen of sport routes and some interesting bouldering potential. Cat Ba Island is located in the province of Hai Phong and it’s the biggest Island of Halong Bay in the Gulf of Tonking. Climbing in Cat Ba can be divided in two main categories: Rock Climbing in Butterfly Valley and DWS along the lime stone of Halong Bay. If you are not afraid of big jumps, this is the summer destination for you. Mai Chauit’s about 4 hours driving from Hanoi. At the moment it doesn’t have so many routes available however it’s great spot for beginners. HuuLung is undoubtedly the ultimate climbing area of the country and it was entirely developed by Francis Haden, Giacomo Crivelli, Jean Verly and his crew. Climbing in Huu Lungmeans being immerse in a Vietnamese post card. Surrounded by flourished green hills, and facing a 130 m vertical limestone wall, this spot show off around 35 sport routes and 3 multi-pitches.

The Weather in the North of Vietnam changes radically all over the year. The best period for Rock Climbing is indeed from September to December while for DWS the best is from April to August. January, February and March are indeed the coldest and wettest months of the years and even though the temperatures rarely drop below 10 degrees, the massive humidity makes your bones shake.

For more detailed information about climbing areas and general climbing tips you can visit the Vietclimb website. 

Jean Verly bolting the first routes in Quoc Oai

Riccardo climbing a long line at Butterfly Valley, Cay Ba

Jean Verly on War and Peace 7a in Huu Lung

Vietclimb Community heading to Butterfly Valley, Cat Ba

Riccardo on the roof of Tien Ong Cave, Cat Ba

Climbing in Phuket: after work climbing session in Kata...

Despite the lack of a proper Climbing Gym in Phuket, as we can see the Phuket Climbing Community is growing fast, both because local climbers are popping up like mushrooms both because new friends are approaching this amazing community.

As always everybody is welcome to join our Thursday Evening After Work Climbing Session...the boulder wall is small and it's perfect for beginners to learn some basic movements, however I can guarantee it can be tough enough also for more experienced climbers!

If you are a regular climber do not forget to bring your shoes and chalk with you. If you have any secondhand old shoes...bring them as well, maybe someone else can use them!

If you are a beginner, no worries, just come and have fun! We will take care of you! 

Check our latest PICTURES and join our growing 

Phuket Climbing Community!

Climbing Session in Phuket are free and open to everybody every Thursday from 7h00pm in Soi 7 Patak Road Kata Karon, Phuket!